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The restaurant where chef Patrick Allen

works survived a devastating ire and

two Category 5 hurricanes. On some

days, when he arrives to cook up mahi

mahi tacos for a mixed crowd of tour-

ists and locals, he wears a T-shirt with a

severe weather logo and the words: THIS

IS WHY WE CAN’T HAVE NICE THINGS.

“It adds a little levity to the situ-

ation,” he says. Allen works at the

Tap Room, a pub and brewery that’s

now thriving on St. John in the U.S.

Virgin Islands, a territory hard-hit by

Hurricane Irma in September 2017.

But if you want the whole story of the

bar, you have to go back 15 years. It’s a

tale best told over a beer—and one, like

many tales about craft brewing, that

starts in New England.

Tap Room owners Kevin Chipman

and Chirag Vyas met as dormmates at the

University of Vermont. After graduating

in 1999, they headed to opposite coasts:

ILLUSTRATION BY JAN BUCHCZIK

DRINKS

Bloomberg Pursuits

October 8, 2018

For the past year, the Tap Room on hurricane-ravaged St. John

wasn’t just an oasis where islanders could unwind. It was a place

to put the pieces back together.

By Noelle Hancock

Brewing Up a Recovery

Vyas took a position as a support scien-

tist for NASA in Silicon Valley; Chipman

found work in Boston as a physical

therapist. “My warm shower was the

best part of my day,” Chipman, now 41,

recalls of life in Massachusetts. “It was

dark when I left for work and dark when

I got home.”

In 2001 he visited St. John, the small-

est island in the U.S. Virgin Islands at

less than 20 square miles. “I remember

sitting at this bar and thinking, I could

live here,” Chipman says. He persuaded

a buddy to join him: Vyas, known to his

friends as “Cheech.” They bought one-

way tickets and arranged to live on a sail-

boat for $250 a month. “We thought, This

will be cool! We’ll be partying on a boat

in the Caribbean!” Vyas says.

The sailboat had no electricity, run-

ning water, or working bathroom. They

worked as bartenders and busboys, stor-

ing dinner on a block of ice and eating

by lashlight. They enjoyed their sim-

ple, sunny life but missed some aspects

of their frosty college days, most notably

the craft beer. They ordered a $50 brew-

ing kit and spent two years playing with

recipes and giving away samples. When

their tangy mango ale developed a fol-

lowing, the two found a bottling partner,

Shipyard Brewing Co. in Maine.

“It’s a lavor combination that had

never been done before with beer on a

production level,” Chipman says. “It’s

Caribbean meets craft.” The partners

pooled their savings, secured small loans

from friends and family—in the $500

to $5,000 range—and started St. John

Brewers in 2004. They were 27.

During the day, they delivered their

product to local bars and restaurants in

their 1989 Toyota pickup, working the

bars at night. In 2006 they opened their

own watering hole, the Tap Room, in

St. John’s main port, Cruz Bay. The menu